By Mike & Darlene Jordan
Ferdinand Magellan was a gutsy guy; and patient to a fault.
We discovered this fact as we headed away from our stop in the Falkland Islands aboard the Norwegian Sun and began making our way to the very southernmost tip of South America. One of the goals of Magellan’s voyage around the globe, was to find a passage through the islands at the tip of South America that would save ships the dangers of sailing the Drake Passage, and the next few days of our trip would retrace portions of this historic voyage.
The waters were calm as we sailed away from Port Stanley and you could almost feel the excitement of all 1,936 passengers prepared to sail just 500 miles from the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula and around Cape Horn.
The “Horn” isn’t really a horn, like the Horn of Africa. Rather, it’s an island, and a pretty small one at that, part of an archipelago of hundreds of islands that dot the tip of the continent. The name comes from Dutch explorers who christened it Kaap Hoorn after the city of Hoorn in the Netherlands. The point is that it’s the very southernmost land of South America, and marks the entrance to the Drake Passage between South America and Antarctica, which was (and is) one of the most treacherous sea lanes on earth.
Sailing around the Horn is a big deal; so much so that the Norwegian Sun has a ceremony “baptizing” all passengers who make the trip. A couple of hours before arriving at the Horn, all passengers were called up onto the pool deck to take part in this celebration. Two barrels of sea water were set up and we passengers lined up and processed past the barrels as the captain and first officer ladled the water over our heads, transforming all of us from “pollywogs” to experienced seafarers. Everyone even received a certificate, signed by the captain. It was a nice touch, and Norwegian Cruise Lines is to be commended for this little perk.
The weather did not cooperate as we had hoped as we rounded the small island, at least not at first. Clouds and intermittent rain made for some pretty foggy photos. When the weather did clear as the captain made two circles around the small island, the neighboring islands came into full view as the sun broke through. Despite their relatively small size, some of these islands towered above the sea, others were little more than a stepping stone. The Sun then headed north, and we entered the Beagle Channel for a stop at Ushuaia, Argentina, billed as the southernmost city in the world.
This was one of our favorite stops on the cruise. Ushuaia has almost a “Switzerland” feel to it. It’s a small town with towering, snow covered peaks surrounding it. We took a small boat out into the channel to visit an island colony of seals, as well as an island colony of cormorants. We had good weather for this excursion and were awed by the sheer beauty of the surrounding mountains and the islands in the Channel.
From Ushuaia our journey took us up to Punta Arenas, Chile, where after a morning tour of the city and an afternoon of hiking in some of the most beautiful forests we’ve ever seen, we reboarded the Sun and began to follow Magellan’s route of discovery through the passage that bears his name.
Although the mountainous islands along the waterway are beautiful, they must have presented an incredible challenge to Magellan and his crew. The passage is replete with false channels and inlets. The explorer had to have men in small boats travel ahead to find the right route by trial and error, and the voyage of discovery of what is now the Strait of Magellan took months complete. Thanks to Ferdinand, we were able to complete the trip from Punta Arenas out to the Pacific Ocean in a day and a half.
With only a few more days left in our journey, we set out up the coast through the Chilean Fjords only to have the trip interrupted by a distress call at sea! More on that next week—stay with us!
Want to take this trip? Email us at cruisesinc@gojade.org .